Bodrum Peninsula

Have you ever imagined yourself in the role of an explorer like Livingstone, Stanley or, going further back, Captain Cook? The great Age of Discovery may be past, but the thrill of exploring the unknown lingers in every soul. The map of the Bodrum peninsula may not have areas on it marked "Unexplored", like the turn-of-the-century maps of Africa did, but there are still many nooks and crannies just waiting to be discovered, especially by the first-time visitor. So let us just point you in a few directions and leave the rest to your imagination, initiative and yen for adventure.

The bay nearest to Bodrum is Bardakci, made popular in the past by the patronage of Zeki Muren, a famous Turkish singer who recently passed away while being honored by a television program, making his first public appearance after a long seclusion due to illness. Bardakci is also known in ancient myth as the bay of Salmacis, the place where the son of the god Hermes and the goddess Aphrodite fell in love with a sea nymph. They were united in one body and thus "hermaphrodite" entered the lexicon as a designation for bisexual persons. The spring where the nymph played now bubbles up in the sea making the water cool on the hottest of days.

Gumbet, the next bay to the west, is Bodrum's Brighton, 'nuff said. Here in previous seasons some foreign females reported receiving overdoses of unwanted attention, particularly at night on the beach (that's our mild way of describing their experiences), so, a word to the wise - you may want to carry a hatpin, a great weapon that needs no license to carry. We will drop this caution in our '99 issues if no happenings of this unpleasant nature are reported this season. Anticipating protests from some Gumbet establishments we hasten to add that Gumbet is still safer than Miami, Florida. We would also like to add that those who do not want to be paid unwelcome attention should "cease and desist" from unduly provocative behavior.

If you want a more ethnic flavor with family enjoyment try Golkoy, or, for the native twist with a dash of "society" try Turkbuku where restaurants are good but mostly expensive. Among our favorites are Yalikavak and Gundogan where you'll find nice sandy beaches and friendly people. If you're inclined to explore the countryside, hike to the deserted village of Sandima, inland and south from the Yalikavak coast. The hike is not tiring, the view of Yalikavak from Sandima is superb and the spring water still flowing from the old village drinking fountain is most refreshing. The beaches at both Yalikavak and Gundogan are sandy and not crowded and near each beach there are pleasant restaurants where you can have just a cool beverage or a full meal. When you visit Gundogan you may want to take a boat trip to the nearby Big Rabbit Island (Buyuktavsan Adasi), the site of a Byzantine monastic church with visible remains of frescoes estimated to date from the ninth century. To the south of Yalikavak is Gumusluk, known by the ancients by the name Myndus. Bring your diving mask with you when you go there because there is much to see just below the water where parts of the historic city subsided in some cataclysmic event and lie just below the surface. An old Greek Orthodox chapel here has here has been remodelled and is now used as an art gallery and for various cultural events - you may be lucky and find some good musicians playing just when you visit.

Torba, 8km NE of Bodrum, is "in" with some Turkish intellectuals (and those who try to pass as such), but due to its proximity to Bodrum it can get crowded. There's an uncrowded pebble beach on the E side of the bay where there are remains of a Byzantine church. On a hilltop E and above Torba there is a remarkably well-preserved Lelegian tomb, well worth the 1 1/2 - 2 hour climb.

On the south shore of the peninsula Bitez beach is a relatively uncrowded strand which, for some unfathomable reason, is not as popular as it deserves to be due of its cleanliness and general pleasant, orderly yet laid-back atmosphere. One explanation for this may be the sea bottom which has much seaweed, but distance swimmers appreciate its expanse of sea usually undisturbed by speeding water sports enthusiasts. Walks along country lanes among citrus orchards north of Bitez are very pleasant at this time of the year.

You can savor a very Turkish family atmosphere at Yahsi beach of Ortakent. The beach is uncrowded, everybody minds their own business and surprisingly good treats can be found in some shore restaurants. Stick to Turkish dishes, not fast food - if you insist on hamburgers, eat them in Bodrum at McDonald's, Burger King or the Lunch Box.

Here's a final, special, insider's tip for those who want to enjoy the sea and local ambiance far from the madding crowd: explore the coast of Yaliciftlik and Asagi Mazi, east of Bodrum and south of Mumcular. Getting there may be a bit problematic as public transportation is scarce, but it's worth it.

Modern Bodrum

In 1927, when Bodrum was a small fishing, sponge diving and agricultural village with a population of 4902, a writer named Cevat Sakir Kabaagacli arrived to serve his sentence of exile under fortress arrest in the Bodrum Castle. Allowed freedom of the town by local authorities he fell under Bodrum's spell. Later, his writings under the pen name of "The Fisherman of Halicarnassus" attracted Turkish intellectuals to this secluded corner of the country, sowing the seeds of tourism.

The beginnings were modest, with a handful of small family-run hotels and humble private homes turned into "pensions" serving undemanding, happy guests. Those halcyon days are still remembered with nostalgia, but it was inevitable for such an enticing venue to be discovered by increasing numbers of visitors and by the mid 1980s tourism was in bloom. Then, encouraged by government incentives, tourist facilities sprang up so quickly that at times the unprepared infrastructure became overtaxed. The latter part of the 1990s saw a rush to enhance the infrastructure and respond to the demand for more Although many restaurants now feature what is known as "international cuisine" some still keep on their menus selections of authentic Turkish dishes. Try them. There are also a few Turkish "lokantas" left, these are eating places specializing in quite inexpensive regional Turkish food. Try them too. luxurious accommodations and provide a wider range of opportunities for recreation and entertainment.

Much of this has now been accomplished and Bodrum today is a trendy, cosmopolitan holiday resort popular with families and with the younger set from all over the world. It is a choice destination of those interested in the rich historical heritage and natural beauty of the region, while its prestigious ranking has attracted a whole galaxy of stars of the Turkish entertainment world. It can truly be said that this diversity of its visitors matches well the variety of its offerings, and is an attraction all of its own.

Cuisine

Gourmet or just plain hungry?

Turkey is the land of some of the most wholesome and delicious food in the world. Heavily favoring fresh vegetables, steering away from too much red meat and relying extensively on pure olive oil and garlic, the Turkish cuisine is healthy and non-fattening, except if one indulges too much in good Turkish bread, borek pastries or rich sweet desserts. Eating when on holiday is fun, especially because you have the time and the opportunity to explore the local gastronomic scene, so let us tempt you with a few suggestions.

However, if you are set in your eating habits and determined to stick to fish and chips, steak or hamburgers in any of their variations, who are we to condemn your choice of food? You're free to eat what you will, but if you listen to that call to adventure within you, perhaps you'll give a try to something different from your usual fare. And Bodrum has it nearly all. Some tips about eating out are given below, with the understanding that what tastes good to one person may not appeal to another.

Although many restaurants now feature what is known as "international cuisine" some still keep on their menus selections of authentic Turkish dishes. Try them. There are also a few Turkish "lokantas" left, these are eating places specializing in quite inexpensive regional Turkish food. Try them too.

If you have to eat and run, try Turkish doner kebab take-outs served in 1/4 or 1/2 loaf of bread - we recommend that you buy these at places that clearly have a large turn-over, avoiding tummy problems with meat that may have remained too long in the heat of the day. Other variants of local semi-fast foods are gozleme and pide - try both. Gözleme is a type of crepe cooked on a convex iron pot (like a reversed wok) and served with fillings. Pide is sometimes called "Turkish pizza" but this comparison is somewhat misleading - let us add that the Turks are experts at making pide, not pizza. Another recommended Turkish "fast-food" is lahmacun It's a fact that what is known as 'international cuisine' has made inroads everywhere but this trend has somewhat eased with the 'discovery' in the West that traditional Mediterranean food is much healthier than cuisines in which red meat is king and animal fats are commonly used. Hence the slow return to the recipes of Turkish grandmothers and chefs of the Ottoman Court. Another Western 'discovery', of the healthy properties of rice, is at least partly responsible for the increase of popularity of Oriental food.

For Hotels in Bodrum see www.bodrum-hottels.com

Source for this information bodrumlife